FAQ

The amount of the installation costs depends on many parameters. How long does the stove pipe have to be? Should the stove be connected to combustion air from outside? Should the stove be located on the ground floor, or on the 3rd floor without a lift?

The best thing to do is to contact your nearest specialist dealer and ask for individual and personal advice on the right installation in your home. As a rule, your specialist dealer will also be happy to come to your home to get an idea of the situation on site.

The kW for wood-burning stoves is different from the output of a car. This is because the actual heat output depends primarily on the amount of wood selected. A rather small wood charge produces 3.0 - 5.0 kW, a very large one can also mean 10.0 kW and more. 

The kW specification of a stove documented on the type plate of each stove only says with which wood support this stove was tested according to DIN. Each manufacturer can decide whether to have the stove tested at 3.0, 4.0 or 6.5 kW. As a rule, manufacturers decide in favour of the output that promises the best emission values after a few preliminary tests on the test bench. 

DROOFF takes a different approach - because we want to give you the good feeling that every model works particularly cleanly with small AND large wood deposits in a verifiable and documented manner. That's why we have had all models up to 2019 tested with 4.0 kW and 8.0 kW. We test all newer models with 6.0 kW and partial load testing - this means that the complete range between 3.0 kW and 6.0 kW is covered by our DIN testing.

Our models can therefore be used for any heat requirement without exception. Regardless of whether your chimney sweep or energy advisor recommends a stove with a low or high output - our stoves are approved and ideally suited for all requirements! And when making your purchase decision, you can concentrate solely on which model you like best!

There is (almost) no minimum size. All DROOFF models are also tested for a small heat output and work excellently with small wooden supports. An optional storage module or solid stone cladding can additionally spread the heat output over several hours so that even smaller rooms don't get too warm. But if you want to know exactly: Your specialist dealer will be happy to help you with his wealth of experience - or even offer you an exact heat requirement calculation!

There are many features that speak for good design, material and workmanship quality:

Cast iron is an absolutely robust and heat-resistant material - especially grates, firebox floors and doors have proven themselves in cast iron quality! By the way, DROOFF cast iron comes from the Südguss foundry near Dresden.

The lock should have two locking points to ensure sufficient contact pressure and opening comfort. A self-locking door "falls into place" by itself - that is comfortable and safe!

Handles should be hollow and designed with air outlets - air flowing through the room can then cool the handle.

Grates should be lockable to allow pure wood firing - but on the underside! Because "shaking" is not only useless, but also leads to unnecessary fine dust emissions!

The viewing panels are exposed to high temperatures. To ensure that the view remains unclouded in the long term, you should opt for brand-name glass ceramics, e.g. from SCHOTT.

Air sliders should be quiet and pleasant to operate and, above all, the flames should react visibly.

Oven varnish must be baked in - it only hardens finally in a certain temperature range. Only modern varnishes such as THERMODUR 600 ASS or senotherm® UHT do this largely smoke-free!

Natural stone should live up to its name and not contain any colour enhancers or impregnation. These chemical substances volatilise over time and the appearance of the stone changes. Depending on the type of stone, the beautiful surfaces can be shown off to their best advantage through elaborate and expert grinding, polishing or sandblasting alone.

Quality not only has its price, but also its weight. As a rule, the heavier a stove, the more robustly it is made. 5 mm thick sheet metal is more durable than 3 mm thick, a heavy cast iron door more durable than a light sheet metal door.

A quality stove can be optionally connected to outside air - at best to the back and down!

Good stoves and good advice belong together. You will find quality in a specialist shop!

And last but not least: Of course, good stoves come with a guarantee!
*** Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version) ***

We recommend that you have your stove installed by a specialist dealer or master stove and air heating engineer. This will ensure professional installation and proper connection to the flue system. Find your DROOFF specialist dealer near you.

Depending on the stove model and placement of the stove in the room, the distances to combustible materials vary. In the technical information and on the type plate of your stove you will find the information with the minimum distances to the side, to the front and to the rear.

What many people don't know: The stovepipe also has a specific fire safety distance that must be maintained. Sometimes you have to use a well-insulated, double-walled pipe with a small wall distance in order to be allowed to place the stove as close to the wall as the fire safety distance of the appliance allows!

If the flooring in front of the stove is not made of non-combustible tile or stone, a spark protection plate is often used to protect the floor. For most DROOFF models, there is a suitable pre-layer plate made of laminated safety glass, otherwise you can choose a universal spark protection plate, which can be used with all models.

Otherwise, please observe the safety distances to combustible components.

Yes, of course.

Low-energy houses are particularly tight and have controlled ventilation. That's why the stove must be room-air-independent: the fresh air required for combustion is not taken from the room where the stove is located, but is supplied via an outside air connection.

In addition, stoves that are independent of room air must be proven to be particularly tight and have a self-locking door.

Apart from the ANDALO 2, LOVERO 2, SOLARO 2, SOLARO 2 W & VARESE 2 W models, all DROOFF models are available as room-air-independent on request.

And especially in combination with an air-heat pump, a stove is an excellent combination. When the temperature is below zero, the heat pump falls back on its electric heating element at great expense - you can counteract this with a cozy wood fire!

As a rule, the stove takes the air needed for combustion from the installation room. In open rooms or older houses, this works wonderfully. But the tighter the building envelope and the smaller and more closed the installation room, the sooner the oxygen in the room air is consumed. In this case, it is advisable to supply fresh air to the stove from outside or from a room located below or behind the stove. Except for the ANDALO 2, LOVERO 2, SOLARO 2, SOLARO 2 W & VARESE 2 W models, all DROOFF models are available as room air independent on request. Please be sure to observe the country-specific requirements!

A room-air dependent stove takes the air required for combustion from the room where the stove is located. A room-air-independent stove operates with air that flows in from outside or from an adjacent room via an outside air connection under or behind the stove.

In addition, room-air-independent stoves must be proven to be particularly tight and have a self-latching door.

The German Institute for Building Technology (DIBt for short) issues building inspectorate approvals for room-air-independent fireplaces. These fireplaces are tested for tightness after being subjected to mechanical and thermal loads and must have a door that closes automatically and tightly.

Apart from the models ANDALO 2, LOVERO 2, SOLARO 2, SOLARO 2 W & VARESE 2 W, all DROOFF models are available as room sealed on request.

The German Institute for Building Technology (DIBt) issues building inspectorate approvals for room-air-independent fireplaces. Room-air-independent (RLU for short) fireplaces must meet three criteria:

Due to its design, the fireplace must be tight enough against the room in which it is installed, up to 8 Pascal, so that in the event of negative pressure in the room in which it is installed or static overpressure in the fireplace, no exhaust gases in potentially dangerous quantities can enter the room.
The stove must have an air duct through which it can be supplied with combustion air directly from outdoors.
The stove must have a self-closing and tight-fitting firebox door (so-called type 1).
Fireplaces approved as room air independent must have a DIBt approval number.

When connecting the stove, you should pay particular attention to the fact that, in addition to the wall opening in which the stove pipe is connected to the chimney, an extra opening is required for the fresh air supply.

The connection of the external combustion air supply is usually made with aluminum flex pipe and should have the lowest possible resistance. This means that the connection should lead as directly as possible to the outside without many changes in direction.

Please note that it is mandatory for your stove to be approved by the responsible chimney sweep before it is put into operation!

We speak of "pure wood burning" when a stove has no grate and consequently no primary air. This form of burning is particularly clean. Strictly speaking, it is not the wood that burns, but gases that escape from the wood. Since these gases are on the surface of the wood, there must always be enough combustion air from above at this point - the secondary air. Air from below - i.e. primary air - is only a disruptive factor for this process.

Primary air, however, facilitates the heating process. To bring the stove up to temperature quickly, the air from below helps.

With its two-part cast-iron grates, DROOFF combines convenient heating with primary air with the possibility of pure wood burning. The grates can simply be pushed shut after the fire has been lit. In the start-up phase, the fire benefits from the primary air from below, and after lighting up, the stove burns only cleanly with secondary air.

Another advantage is that once the grate is closed, no more ember particles can fall into the ash box, unlike with conventional grates. This is because embers in the ash pan smoulder with too little oxygen, which can produce considerable emissions.

Of course, the upper part of the DROOFF grate is rigid and the lower part can be moved to close the grate openings. In this way, the ember bed and fire are not moved. A so-called "vibrating grate" is not only useless, but also harmful to the environment. Shaking only raises dust and increases emissions.

You can use almost any type of dry, natural wood as firewood. The quality of the firewood is crucial - for the flame pattern, a clean pane and low emissions. We recommend well-seasoned hardwoods such as beech or birch, as these guarantee plenty of embers and a quiet burn.

Softwoods such as fir, spruce, larch or poplar, on the other hand, are best suited as kindling wood. These have a high resin content and a low flash point, which means that heat builds up very quickly.

Fossil fuels (brown or hard coal) or treated wood, on the other hand, have no place in a stove. Wood that is not painted but is pressure impregnated must also not be burnt, as toxic gases are produced. Pressure impregnated wood must even be disposed of as hazardous waste!

A so-called permanent fire stove burns for hours with only one fuel layer and then keeps the embers burning. Until now, however, the "permanent fire" function was only possible using coal as fuel. We are all aware of the disadvantages of fossil fuels. That's why DROOFF was the first manufacturer to develop stoves that also meet these requirements with wood.

And it works like this: In a conventional stove, a layer of wood burns for about 45 minutes. Not so with the stoves that are equipped with the fire+ electronic burn-off control and are certified as permanent fire stoves. The fire+ burn-off control automatically creates optimum combustion conditions and can more than double the burn-off time. This means that logs added to the bed of embers still light up by themselves even after hours.

The wood should be stored in a weatherproof place and protected from soil moisture. The logs lie face outwards with enough space between the floor and the logs. This allows the air to circulate optimally. Closed rooms such as garages or cellars are not suitable for storing firewood.

Before using the firewood, take it inside a few days before use. This allows any surface moisture to dry off.

Be considerate of our environment and only use dry wood. The first BImschV (First Ordinance for the Implementation of the Federal Immission Control Act) prescribes a maximum wood moisture content of 25 percent. However, the optimum water content is lower: Between 15 and 20 percent residual moisture is ideal and enables efficient combustion. If the firewood is moister, this can lead to a higher pollutant load, damage to the chimney and a lower calorific value.

You can determine the moisture content with a wood moisture meter.

Depending on the stove model, the size of the firebox and the desired calorific value, the amount of firewood (preferably natural beech or birch) required varies. Please read our general operating instructions. In general, the weight of a piece of wood should be less than 1 kg. Also use softwood kindling such as fir wood and a lighting aid to start the fire.

If you do not use your stove for a longer period of time - as is usually the case during the summer months, for example - close the air slides of your appliance as a precautionary measure to prevent the possible formation of rust due to condensation.

Oven paint is designed for mechanical hardness and colour retention at high temperatures, but is neither water-repellent nor particularly protective against corrosion. Therefore, please clean painted surfaces only dry and avoid moisture in the firing chamber. This can get into the appliance through too timid a start-up, through firewood with too much residual moisture or, in the case of an outside air connection, through condensing outside air. In rare cases, moisture can also get into the stove through the chimney. Always take enough kindling and kindling wood, use only firewood with a residual moisture content of less than 20% and close the air slides of your appliance when it is not in use.

A stove is attractive to children - but it also gets very hot on the surface. You should place a safety grate in front of the stove so that children do not get too close to the hot stove. Never leave small children unattended near the stove!

A black stove glass is often an indication of incorrect burning behaviour:

• Use of unsuitable fuel
• Incorrect lighting
• Incorrect air supply setting
• Unsuitable flue draught for the stove

Black plumes can also occur when seals become porous over time. Door seals are wearing parts that can become damaged over time due to frequent opening and closing of the stove in combination with permanently high temperatures in the combustion chamber. We recommend a general replacement after 2,000 hours of operation to prevent the door from no longer closing airtightly and heat and thus energy being lost during heating or flue gases from entering the living space.
You can check the quality of the seals with a simple test: Place a sheet of paper between the stove door. If the paper can be removed without much effort when the stove door is closed, the gasket must be replaced! You can get new gaskets either directly from us or from your local specialist dealer.

DROOFF stoves are designed in such a way that the secondary air acts as pane rinsing air. Experience shows that soot particles have little chance of accumulating on the pane. But exceptions prove the rule: Use a dry and soft cloth to clean the stove glass. We recommend a dry cleaning sponge, which you can find in our accessories shop.

When cleaning your stove glass, please refrain from:

• abrasive cloths
• Pot scrubbers
• scouring agents
• liquid cleaner

These cleaning agents can cause the finest hairline cracks to form in the pane, in which soot particles settle. These soils are very difficult or impossible to remove. Do not use any liquid cleaners to clean a printed stove pane, as their ingredients can cause damage and soiling and may even invalidate the warranty.

You can - when the stove is cold - put blotting paper on the spots with candle wax and then run a hot iron over them. If any residue remains visible: over time, such stains fade more and more. The wax soaks deeper and deeper into the stone and at the same time evaporates more and more - the more often the stove is in use, the faster.

We recommend one to one and a half pounds (500 - 750 g) per log. Depending on the desired output and type of wood, 2 - 4 logs. If the logs are significantly lighter (especially too thin), the fire will burn too quickly and you will need too much wood. If, on the other hand, the logs are significantly heavier (especially too thick), the total surface area of the wood is too small for the necessary gasification and an unnecessary amount of emissions is produced. Please also refer to the general operating instructions.

Only clean the wood-burning stove when it is cold.

Steel and cast iron surfaces can be cleaned with a clean, soft, lint-free and dry cloth.

It is best to clean natural stone with a damp cloth only. Special natural stone cleaners and/or very fine sandpaper can be used for stains - but it depends on the constellation of dirt and material. It is best to try out on an inconspicuous spot how your stone reacts to your cleaning measure!

Liquid cleaners are not suitable for glass ceramic panes. In the case of non-printed panes, they can attack the pane seals. And on printed panes, liquid cleaners attack the paint. It is better to use a dry cleaner (special sponge).

The ash box must be emptied regularly - usually every 1 - 4 weeks during the heating season. You will develop a feeling for the interval - it depends on the type of wood, the intensity of use and the volume of the ash box.

By the way, your stove will be pleased if you always leave a little ash in the combustion chamber - this protects the bottom of the combustion chamber. Only the grate must be free before each lighting!

For a long service life and perfect function, we recommend regular, preferably annual maintenance. If you want to put this in the hands of your specialist dealer, it is best to commission him "anti-cyclically" at the end of the heating season in spring or summer. At the beginning of the heating season, many stove owners get this idea - delivery times for spare parts and fully booked customer services are sometimes the result.

Maintenance is usually limited to checking and, if necessary, replacing the seals and greasing (e.g. with heat-resistant copper paste) the moving parts.

In addition, your chimney sweep must of course clean the flue gas passages - it is best to discuss the necessary cleaning interval with him personally depending on your heating behaviour.

A "chemical" smell during the first firing is normal - stove enamel hardens only under heat. The process is called "burning-in", is described in the general operating instructions and is usually carried out by your specialist dealer.

Sometimes a stove smells at the beginning of the heating period. If the stove has not been used for a long time, dust has often collected on and in the appliance or on the stove pipe and is now burning.

If your stove smells unpleasant for a longer period of time, please contact your specialist dealer or our customer service. A child may have thrown a toy into the appliance between the top panel and the side panel. Or packaging material or tools were forgotten in the appliance during assembly. Rarely, inclusions in the natural stone also give off an unpleasant odour.

First of all, ash does not have to be removed after every firing. On the contrary, a little cold ash in the firebox makes it easier to light the stove again.

Before disposing of the ash, it must have cooled down completely. It is best to wait 24 hours before removing the ash from the firebox. Use a hand brush or fireplace tools to carefully push the ash through the grate into the ash container (pot or drawer). Whatever does not fall through the grate may remain in the combustion chamber. Of course, you can also remove the grate to clean the combustion chamber completely - e.g. at the end of the heating season. Any remaining ash residue in the combustion chamber can be removed with an ash vacuum cleaner.

Put the ash in a fireproof container and leave it for 1 - 2 days. In most cases, the ash can be disposed of with the regular waste. However, ashes have no place in the organic waste bin or on the compost heap!

Please always add fuel only when the fire has burnt down to the base embers. As long as flames are visible, do not open the door. Otherwise dust may escape from the combustion chamber and the air flowing in will disturb the combustion process.

We speak of "pure wood burning" when a stove has no grate and consequently no primary air. This form of burning is particularly clean. Strictly speaking, it is not the wood that burns, but gases that escape from the wood. Since these gases are on the surface of the wood, there must always be enough combustion air from above at this point - the secondary air. Air from below - i.e. primary air - is only a disruptive factor for this process.

Primary air, however, facilitates the heating process. To bring the stove up to temperature quickly, the air from below helps.

With its two-part cast-iron grates, DROOFF combines convenient heating with primary air with the possibility of pure wood burning. The grates can simply be pushed shut after the fire has been lit. In the start-up phase, the fire benefits from the primary air from below, and after lighting up, the stove burns only cleanly with secondary air.

Another advantage is that once the grate is closed, no more ember particles can fall into the ash box, unlike with conventional grates. This is because embers in the ash pan smoulder with too little oxygen, which can produce considerable emissions.

Of course, the upper part of the DROOFF grate is rigid and the lower part can be moved to close the grate openings. In this way, the ember bed and fire are not moved. A so-called "vibrating grate" is not only useless, but also harmful to the environment. Shaking only raises dust and increases emissions.

You can use almost any type of dry, natural wood as firewood. The quality of the firewood is crucial - for the flame pattern, a clean pane and low emissions. We recommend well-seasoned hardwoods such as beech or birch, as these guarantee plenty of embers and a quiet burn.

Softwoods such as fir, spruce, larch or poplar, on the other hand, are best suited as kindling wood. These have a high resin content and a low flash point, which means that heat builds up very quickly.

Fossil fuels (brown or hard coal) or treated wood, on the other hand, have no place in a stove. Wood that is not painted but is pressure impregnated must also not be burnt, as toxic gases are produced. Pressure impregnated wood must even be disposed of as hazardous waste!

A so-called permanent fire stove burns for hours with only one fuel layer and then keeps the embers burning. Until now, however, the "permanent fire" function was only possible using coal as fuel. We are all aware of the disadvantages of fossil fuels. That's why DROOFF was the first manufacturer to develop stoves that also meet these requirements with wood.

And it works like this: In a conventional stove, a layer of wood burns for about 45 minutes. Not so with the stoves that are equipped with the fire+ electronic burn-off control and are certified as permanent fire stoves. The fire+ burn-off control automatically creates optimum combustion conditions and can more than double the burn-off time. This means that logs added to the bed of embers still light up by themselves even after hours.

The wood should be stored in a weatherproof place and protected from soil moisture. The logs lie face outwards with enough space between the floor and the logs. This allows the air to circulate optimally. Closed rooms such as garages or cellars are not suitable for storing firewood.

Before using the firewood, take it inside a few days before use. This allows any surface moisture to dry off.

Be considerate of our environment and only use dry wood. The first BImschV (First Ordinance for the Implementation of the Federal Immission Control Act) prescribes a maximum wood moisture content of 25 percent. However, the optimum water content is lower: Between 15 and 20 percent residual moisture is ideal and enables efficient combustion. If the firewood is moister, this can lead to a higher pollutant load, damage to the chimney and a lower calorific value.

You can determine the moisture content with a wood moisture meter.

Depending on the stove model, the size of the firebox and the desired calorific value, the amount of firewood (preferably natural beech or birch) required varies. Please read our general operating instructions. In general, the weight of a piece of wood should be less than 1 kg. Also use softwood kindling such as fir wood and a lighting aid to start the fire.

If you do not use your stove for a longer period of time - as is usually the case during the summer months, for example - close the air slides of your appliance as a precautionary measure to prevent the possible formation of rust due to condensation.

Oven paint is designed for mechanical hardness and colour retention at high temperatures, but is neither water-repellent nor particularly protective against corrosion. Therefore, please clean painted surfaces only dry and avoid moisture in the firing chamber. This can get into the appliance through too timid a start-up, through firewood with too much residual moisture or, in the case of an outside air connection, through condensing outside air. In rare cases, moisture can also get into the stove through the chimney. Always take enough kindling and kindling wood, use only firewood with a residual moisture content of less than 20% and close the air slides of your appliance when it is not in use.

A stove is attractive to children - but it also gets very hot on the surface. You should place a safety grate in front of the stove so that children do not get too close to the hot stove. Never leave small children unattended near the stove!

A black stove glass is often an indication of incorrect burning behaviour:

• Use of unsuitable fuel
• Incorrect lighting
• Incorrect air supply setting
• Unsuitable flue draught for the stove

Black plumes can also occur when seals become porous over time. Door seals are wearing parts that can become damaged over time due to frequent opening and closing of the stove in combination with permanently high temperatures in the combustion chamber. We recommend a general replacement after 2,000 hours of operation to prevent the door from no longer closing airtightly and heat and thus energy being lost during heating or flue gases from entering the living space.
You can check the quality of the seals with a simple test: Place a sheet of paper between the stove door. If the paper can be removed without much effort when the stove door is closed, the gasket must be replaced! You can get new gaskets either directly from us or from your local specialist dealer.

DROOFF stoves are designed in such a way that the secondary air acts as pane rinsing air. Experience shows that soot particles have little chance of accumulating on the pane. But exceptions prove the rule: Use a dry and soft cloth to clean the stove glass. We recommend a dry cleaning sponge, which you can find in our accessories shop.

When cleaning your stove glass, please refrain from:

• abrasive cloths
• Pot scrubbers
• scouring agents
• liquid cleaner

These cleaning agents can cause the finest hairline cracks to form in the pane, in which soot particles settle. These soils are very difficult or impossible to remove. Do not use any liquid cleaners to clean a printed stove pane, as their ingredients can cause damage and soiling and may even invalidate the warranty.

You can - when the stove is cold - put blotting paper on the spots with candle wax and then run a hot iron over them. If any residue remains visible: over time, such stains fade more and more. The wax soaks deeper and deeper into the stone and at the same time evaporates more and more - the more often the stove is in use, the faster.

We recommend one to one and a half pounds (500 - 750 g) per log. Depending on the desired output and type of wood, 2 - 4 logs. If the logs are significantly lighter (especially too thin), the fire will burn too quickly and you will need too much wood. If, on the other hand, the logs are significantly heavier (especially too thick), the total surface area of the wood is too small for the necessary gasification and an unnecessary amount of emissions is produced. Please also refer to the general operating instructions.

Only clean the wood-burning stove when it is cold.

Steel and cast iron surfaces can be cleaned with a clean, soft, lint-free and dry cloth.

It is best to clean natural stone with a damp cloth only. Special natural stone cleaners and/or very fine sandpaper can be used for stains - but it depends on the constellation of dirt and material. It is best to try out on an inconspicuous spot how your stone reacts to your cleaning measure!

Liquid cleaners are not suitable for glass ceramic panes. In the case of non-printed panes, they can attack the pane seals. And on printed panes, liquid cleaners attack the paint. It is better to use a dry cleaner (special sponge).

The ash box must be emptied regularly - usually every 1 - 4 weeks during the heating season. You will develop a feeling for the interval - it depends on the type of wood, the intensity of use and the volume of the ash box.

By the way, your stove will be pleased if you always leave a little ash in the combustion chamber - this protects the bottom of the combustion chamber. Only the grate must be free before each lighting!

For a long service life and perfect function, we recommend regular, preferably annual maintenance. If you want to put this in the hands of your specialist dealer, it is best to commission him "anti-cyclically" at the end of the heating season in spring or summer. At the beginning of the heating season, many stove owners get this idea - delivery times for spare parts and fully booked customer services are sometimes the result.

Maintenance is usually limited to checking and, if necessary, replacing the seals and greasing (e.g. with heat-resistant copper paste) the moving parts.

In addition, your chimney sweep must of course clean the flue gas passages - it is best to discuss the necessary cleaning interval with him personally depending on your heating behaviour.

A "chemical" smell during the first firing is normal - stove enamel hardens only under heat. The process is called "burning-in", is described in the general operating instructions and is usually carried out by your specialist dealer.

Sometimes a stove smells at the beginning of the heating period. If the stove has not been used for a long time, dust has often collected on and in the appliance or on the stove pipe and is now burning.

If your stove smells unpleasant for a longer period of time, please contact your specialist dealer or our customer service. A child may have thrown a toy into the appliance between the top panel and the side panel. Or packaging material or tools were forgotten in the appliance during assembly. Rarely, inclusions in the natural stone also give off an unpleasant odour.

First of all, ash does not have to be removed after every firing. On the contrary, a little cold ash in the firebox makes it easier to light the stove again.

Before disposing of the ash, it must have cooled down completely. It is best to wait 24 hours before removing the ash from the firebox. Use a hand brush or fireplace tools to carefully push the ash through the grate into the ash container (pot or drawer). Whatever does not fall through the grate may remain in the combustion chamber. Of course, you can also remove the grate to clean the combustion chamber completely - e.g. at the end of the heating season. Any remaining ash residue in the combustion chamber can be removed with an ash vacuum cleaner.

Put the ash in a fireproof container and leave it for 1 - 2 days. In most cases, the ash can be disposed of with the regular waste. However, ashes have no place in the organic waste bin or on the compost heap!

Please always add fuel only when the fire has burnt down to the base embers. As long as flames are visible, do not open the door. Otherwise dust may escape from the combustion chamber and the air flowing in will disturb the combustion process.

The 1st Ordinance on the Implementation of the Federal Immission Control Act, or 1st BImSchV for short, is the ordinance on small and medium-sized combustion plants. It regulates the specifications and deadlines that stoves must comply with.

The second stage of immission protection has been in force since the beginning of 2015. It sets the limits of a stove at 0.125 g/m³ carbon monoxide (CO) and 0.04 g/m³ fine dust and requires at least 73% efficiency.

31 December 2020 was the deadline for filter retrofitting or decommissioning for stoves that do not meet these values and were built and put into operation between 1 January 1985 and 31 December 1994.

Stoves that do not meet these values and were built and put into operation after 1 January 1995 must be retrofitted or taken out of operation by 31 December 2024.

You can find out whether your stove is grandfathered or must be replaced by 2024 here: https://cert.hki-online.de/geraete. If, in exceptional cases, a model is not in this database, please contact us as the manufacturer, stating the model and, if applicable, the appliance number.

When wood burns in a stove, only as much CO₂ is released as the tree has removed from the environment in the course of its life. Burnt wood only emits as much CO₂ as would have been produced by natural decay in the forest.

Forests must be thinned regularly. The healthiest trees are given enough space and light, while diseased and overgrown trees are removed. The resulting wood is unsuitable as furniture or construction timber, but predestined for use as firewood.

If trunk and raw wood are harvested for material use, tops and branches can only be used for energy. In addition, there are considerable amounts of firewood that accrue in landscaping and in the maintenance of private gardens.

If this abundant reservoir of residual wood were not used for energy, it would rot and the CO₂ bound in it would be released back into the atmosphere as it decomposed.

But as with all combustion processes, emissions are produced. We are driven by experience, research and modern technology to minimise these emissions. We want to build the cleanest wood-burning stoves in the world - so that the environment can benefit from the positive climate effect of wood combustion without endangering the purity of the air. Read here why our stove "fleet" is already twice as clean as required by law. 
 

Your contract partner is your personal local DROOFF dealer. He will advise you on all matters concerning the APRICA 2 with Blue Angel, e.g. costs, functions, installation options and connection. You purchase both the stove and the additional components from your DROOFF dealer. He will then take care of the professional installation and instruct you in the optimal operation.

Operation is absolutely identical from lighting to emptying the ash pan. The fire+ takes the manual control of the combustion air away from you and shows you the perfect time to add fuel - that's a great comfort gain. One difference is that the chimney sweep has to remove the collected fine dust more often if the stove is used frequently. This is not necessary if the stove is used occasionally.

The OekoTube must be mounted in the chimney (e.g. attic) or on the chimney head. Mounting is not a major effort, but a power connection is required at this point.

The cleaning and maintenance of the OekoTube dust collector is carried out with the regular chimney cleaning by your district chimney sweep. Please note that it is mandatory for the chimney sweep to carry out an inspection within the first month of operation and to determine a cleaning interval.

The catalytic converter and the fire+ combustion control are maintenance-free.